Hemming pants is a simple task that can be easily accomplished with a few basic tools and materials. Whether you’re looking to shorten a pair of pants that are too long or give them a more tailored look, there are several different hemming methods to choose from. In this article, we’ll walk you through the most common hand-sewing technique for hemming pants, providing step-by-step instructions and helpful tips to ensure a professional-looking finish.
Before you begin, it’s important to gather the necessary materials. You’ll need a sewing needle, thread, scissors, a measuring tape, and an iron. You may also want to use a hem gauge or ruler for accuracy. Once you have all of your materials, you can begin the hemming process by folding up the bottom of the pant leg to the desired length. Pin the hem in place, then use a measuring tape to measure the distance between the bottom of the hem and the edge of the fabric. This measurement will tell you how much fabric to fold up for the second hem. Fold up the fabric to the measured distance and pin it in place.
Once the hem is pinned, you can begin sewing it in place. Start by threading the needle with a double strand of thread and knotting the ends together. Bring the needle up through the bottom of the hem, making sure to catch both layers of fabric. Take a small stitch, then bring the needle back down through the fabric about 1/4 inch away from the first stitch. Continue stitching around the hem, taking small stitches and making sure to catch both layers of fabric. When you reach the end of the hem, tie off the thread and trim any excess fabric.
Gathering Essential Tools and Materials
Hemming pants by hand requires a few basic tools and materials. Here’s everything you’ll need:
Tools
- Measuring tape or ruler: For measuring the hem length.
- Fabric scissors: For cutting the fabric.
- Needle: A sharp needle, preferably a size 9 or 10 sewing needle, for sewing the hem.
- Thread: Matching the color of the fabric, for sewing the hem.
- Seam ripper (optional): For removing any existing hem or undoing any mistakes.
- Iron and ironing board: For pressing the hem.
- Tailor’s chalk or fabric pen: For marking the hem line.
- Thimbles (optional): To protect your fingers while pushing the needle through thick fabric.
Materials
- Pants: The pants you want to hem.
- Hem tape (optional): A fusible or iron-on tape that can be used to hem the fabric, eliminating the need for sewing.
| Tool | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Measuring tape or ruler | Measuring the hem length |
| Fabric scissors | Cutting the fabric |
| Needle | Sewing the hem |
| Thread | Matching the color of the fabric, for sewing the hem. |
| Seam ripper (optional) | Removing any existing hem or undoing any mistakes. |
Preparing the Pants
Before you begin hemming, it’s crucial to prepare your pants properly. This includes washing and drying them to remove any shrinkage or wrinkles. Iron the pants to create a crisp, flat surface for hemming.
Measuring the Hem
Determining the desired hem length is the next step. Stand up straight and have someone assist you in measuring from the bottom edge of the pant leg to the desired hem height. Use a measuring tape or ruler to mark the measurement on both the front and back of the pants leg, ensuring symmetry.
Measuring Tips:
| Hem Type | Measurement Guide |
|---|---|
| Blind Hem | Add 2.5 cm (1 inch) to the desired length for the hem allowance. |
| Double-Folded Hem | Double the desired hem allowance, typically around 5 cm (2 inches), to account for both folds. |
| Cuffed Hem | Measure the desired cuff width and add an additional 5 cm (2 inches) for the hem allowance. |
After measuring, mark the hem line clearly with tailor’s chalk, pins, or a fabric pen. Double-check the marks before proceeding with the actual hemming process.
Pinning the Hem in Place
Once you have measured and cut the excess fabric, it’s time to pin the hem in place. This will help you ensure that the hem is even and that the fabric doesn’t shift while you’re sewing.
- Start by folding up the hem allowance (the amount of fabric you want to turn under) along the entire length of the pant leg. Press the fold with an iron to create a crisp crease.
- Unfold the hem allowance. Fold it up again, this time by half of the hem allowance. Press this fold with an iron as well.
- Align the folded edge of the hem allowance with the bottom edge of the pant leg. Pin the two edges together, starting at the center and working your way out to the sides.
- Ensure that the pins are perpendicular to the edge of the fabric and that they are spaced evenly apart. Use as many pins as necessary to keep the hem in place securely. Start by placing a pin every 1-2 inches, and then add more pins as needed to ensure that the hem is secure. The more pins you use, the less likely the fabric is to shift while you’re sewing.
Once the hem is pinned in place, you’re ready to start sewing. To do this, you will need a needle and thread that matches the color of the fabric. You can either hand-sew the hem or use a sewing machine. If you’re hand-sewing the hem, use a small running stitch to sew the two edges of the hem together. If you’re using a sewing machine, use a straight stitch and a presser foot that is designed for hemming.
Troubleshooting Common Mistakes
8. Hem is not straight
Cause:
– Using a ruler that is not long enough
– Not pinning the hem evenly
– Not pressing the hem flat before sewing
Solutions:
– Use a ruler or measuring tape that is longer than the width of the pants
– Pin the hem in multiple places, evenly spaced apart
– Press the hem with an iron and pressing cloth before sewing
– Use a topstitch needle if the fabric is thick
– If the hem is still not straight, cut off the excess fabric and try again
Tips:
– Use a contrasting thread color to mark the hemline
– Fold the hem twice to create a double-folded hem, which will be more durable
– Use a blind hem stitch to create a hem that is almost invisible
– If the hem is very long, break it up into smaller sections and sew it in stages
– Be patient and take your time
Tips for a Professional-Looking Hem
Prepare the Pants
Turn the pants inside out and smooth out the legs. Measure and mark the desired hem length with a measuring tape and fabric marker.
Fold the Excess Fabric
Fold up the excess fabric along the marked hem line, double-folding it to create a clean edge.
Pin the Hem
Use sewing pins to secure the folded hem in place. Start at the center and work your way outwards, pinning every few inches.
Iron the Hem
Use a medium heat iron to press the hem flat and remove any wrinkles. This will help the fabric hold its shape when sewn.
Stitch the Hem
Thread your needle with a matching thread and use a blind stitch to sew the hem in place. Start at the center and stitch in small, even stitches, keeping the thread tension consistent.
Remove the Pins
Once the hem is stitched, carefully remove all the sewing pins.
Press the Hem Again
Use a warm iron to press the stitched hem once more. This will set the thread and give the hem a professional finish.
Stitch Reinforcement
To reinforce the hem, stitch a second line of stitching parallel to the first, about 1/4 inch (6 mm) away. This will prevent the hem from fraying or pulling apart over time.
Hemming Guidelines
| Fabric Type | Hem Width |
|---|---|
| Lightweight Woven | 1/2 inch (12 mm) |
| Medium-Weight Woven | 1 inch (25 mm) |
| Heavyweight Woven | 1-1/2 inches (38 mm) |
| Knits | 1/4 inch (6 mm) – 1/2 inch (12 mm) |
How To Hem Pants By Hand
Hemming pants by hand is a relatively simple task that can be completed in a few minutes. With a few simple tools and a little bit of patience, you can achieve a professional-looking hem that will last for years.
Here is a step-by-step guide on how to hem pants by hand:
- Gather your materials. You will need a needle, thread, scissors, and a measuring tape.
- Measure the desired length of the pants. Add 1 inch to this measurement for the hem allowance.
- Fold up the bottom of the pants by 1 inch and press it with an iron.
- Fold up the bottom of the pants again by 1 inch and press it again.
- Sew the hem in place using a blind stitch. Start by inserting the needle into the folded edge of the hem, about 1/4 inch from the raw edge.
- Take a small stitch, about 1/8 inch long, and insert the needle into the folded edge of the pants, about 1/4 inch from the first stitch.
- Continue sewing in this manner, taking small stitches and inserting the needle into the folded edge of the pants about 1/4 inch from the previous stitch.
- When you reach the end of the hem, tie off the thread and trim any excess.
People Also Ask
How do you hem pants without a sewing machine?
You can hem pants by hand using a blind stitch. This stitch is invisible from the right side of the fabric and is perfect for hemming pants.
How do you hem pants with a needle and thread?
To hem pants with a needle and thread, you will need to use a blind stitch. This stitch is invisible from the right side of the fabric and is perfect for hemming pants.
How do you hem jeans with a sewing machine?
To hem jeans with a sewing machine, you will need to use a blind stitch. This stitch is invisible from the right side of the fabric and is perfect for hemming jeans.
