Sewing pants pockets can be a tricky task, but with the right tools and techniques, you can create professional-looking pockets that will enhance the functionality and style of your pants. Whether you’re a seasoned seamstress or a beginner, following these detailed instructions will guide you through the process of creating perfectly fitted, durable pockets that will elevate the overall appearance of your pants.
To begin, gather your essential materials, including fabric for the pockets, interfacing to stabilize the fabric, a sewing machine, thread, scissors, and a measuring tape. Choose a fabric that complements the outer fabric of your pants, and select an interfacing that is appropriate for the weight and type of fabric you are using. Once you have your materials assembled, you can begin by cutting out the pocket pieces according to the pattern or measurements you have chosen.
After cutting out the pocket pieces, you will need to interface the fabric to give it stability and prevent it from stretching or fraying. Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the pocket fabric, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Once the interfacing is applied, you can begin sewing the pocket pieces together, starting with the side seams. Use a straight stitch and a seam allowance of 5/8 inch, and be sure to reinforce the corners of the pocket to ensure durability. When the side seams are complete, you can proceed to sew the top and bottom seams of the pocket, again using a straight stitch and a 5/8-inch seam allowance.
Matching Fabric to Your Pants
When selecting fabric for your pants pockets, it’s essential to consider the following factors to ensure a harmonious and durable result:
Material Composition and Weight:
- The fabric of your pockets should complement the weight and composition of your pants fabric. For lightweight pants, choose a lightweight pocket fabric like cotton poplin or chambray. For heavier pants like denim or corduroy, opt for a more robust fabric such as canvas or twill.
Color and Pattern:
- For a classic and understated look, match the pocket fabric to the color of your pants. Alternatively, you can create a contrasting effect by using a fabric in a different color or pattern. However, ensure the colors and patterns do not clash or overwhelm the overall design of your pants.
Stretch and Weave:
- Consider the stretch and weave of both the pants fabric and pocket fabric. If your pants have a stretch component, your pocket fabric should also possess some elasticity to accommodate movement. Similarly, if your pants are woven, choose a woven pocket fabric for a more structured and durable finish.
| Pants Fabric | Suitable Pocket Fabrics |
|---|---|
| Lightweight cotton | Cotton poplin, chambray |
| Denim | Canvas, twill |
| Corduroy | Heavyweight corduroy, canvas |
| Stretch fabrics | Stretch cotton, Ponte de Roma |
Preparing the Pocket Fabric
Preparing the pocket fabric is a crucial step in ensuring that the pockets are durable, functional, and aesthetically pleasing. Follow these steps carefully to create a solid foundation for your pant pockets:
1. Choose the Right Fabric
The type of fabric used for the pockets should complement the pants’ material and purpose. For casual pants, a durable cotton or canvas is a suitable choice. Dress pants may require a more refined fabric such as silk or satin. Consider the weight and texture of the fabric to ensure it matches the rest of the garment.
2. Cut the Pocket Pieces
The pocket pieces will typically consist of two main pieces: the front and back of the pocket. Cut the pieces according to the pattern instructions, ensuring they are symmetrical and of the correct size. The size of the pocket should be proportional to the pants and the intended use.
For most pants pockets, you’ll need the following pocket pieces:
| Piece | Description |
|---|---|
| Front pocket facing | The fabric that forms the front of the pocket and is visible when the pocket is closed. |
| Front pocket bag | The fabric that lines the inside of the front pocket. |
| Back pocket facing | The fabric that forms the back of the pocket and is attached to the pants. |
| Back pocket bag | The fabric that lines the inside of the back pocket. |
a. Front Pocket Facings and Bags
Cut two pieces of fabric for the front pocket facing and two pieces for the front pocket bag. The facing pieces should be slightly larger than the bag pieces to allow for seam allowances.
b. Back Pocket Facings and Bags
Cut one piece of fabric for the back pocket facing and one piece for the back pocket bag. The facing piece should be the same size as the bag piece.
c. Pocket Interfacing (Optional)
For added durability, consider adding interfacing to the pocket pieces. Interfacing is a fusible or sew-in material that helps stabilize the fabric and prevent it from stretching or fraying.
3. Fuse Interfacing (Optional)
If desired, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the pocket facing pieces. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper application.
Sewing the Pocket Bag
Laying Out the Pocket Bag
Place the pocket bag fabric right sides together and align the raw edges. Pin and sew around the three remaining sides using a 1/4-inch seam allowance, leaving the top edge open for the opening.
Clipping the Corners
To reduce bulk and improve the pocket’s shape, clip the corners diagonally, being careful not to cut through the stitching. The size of the clips will vary depending on the size of the pocket.
Turning and Pressing
Turn the pocket bag right side out through the opening at the top. Use a point turner or a chopstick to push out the corners and smooth out the seams.
Press the pocket bag thoroughly to set the seams and give it a professional finish. The table below provides guidelines for pressing the different sections of the pocket bag.
| Section | Pressing |
|---|---|
| Sides and bottom seams | Press open |
| Pocket opening | Press 1/4 inch towards the inside of the pocket |
| Around the pocket opening | Press 1/8 inch towards the outside of the pocket |
Attaching the Pocket Bag to the Pants
4. Pin and Stitch the Bag
Align the raw edge of the pocket bag with the raw edge of the pants opening, right sides together. Pin the bag in place, making sure the corners are aligned. Stitch around the three sides of the opening, using a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Begin and end your stitching 1/2 inch from the top corners of the opening.
To create a stronger seam, topstitch around the opening, 1/8 inch from the edge. This will help to prevent the seam from fraying or tearing.
Once the pocket bag is attached, turn the pants right side out and press the pocket flat. The pocket bag should now be securely attached to the pants and ready for use.
Here is a table summarizing the steps for attaching the pocket bag to the pants:
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| 1 | Align the raw edge of the pocket bag with the raw edge of the pants opening. |
| 2 | Pin the bag in place, making sure the corners are aligned. |
| 3 | Stitch around the three sides of the opening, using a 1/4-inch seam allowance. |
| 4 | Topstitch around the opening, 1/8 inch from the edge. |
| 5 | Turn the pants right side out and press the pocket flat. |
Finishing the Pocket Bag
Now that the pocket bag is sewn, it’s time to finish it. This will give it a professional look and help it to last longer.
- Trim the corners. Use sharp scissors to trim the corners of the pocket bag, about ¼ inch from the seam.
This will help to prevent the corners from fraying.
- Turn the pocket bag right side out. Use a point turner or a chopstick to help you turn the pocket bag right side out. Make sure to push out the corners.
- Press the pocket bag. Press the pocket bag with a warm iron. This will help to set the seams and give the bag a finished look.
- Topstitch the pocket bag. Topstitch around the edge of the pocket bag, about ⅛ inch from the edge. This will help to secure the bag and give it a finished look.
- Mark the placement of the button or snap. Place the pocket on the pants and mark the desired location of the closure. Make sure the mark is in the center of the pocket and parallel to the top edge.
- Create a small hole for the button or snap. Use a sharp needle or awl to create a small hole in the fabric at the marked location.
- Sew the button or snap in place. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to sew the button or snap securely in place. Make sure the stitches are strong and evenly spaced.
- Reinforce the closure. To prevent the closure from tearing out, reinforce the fabric around the button or snap with a few extra stitches.
- Create a buttonhole or snap loop. On the opposite side of the pocket, create a buttonhole or snap loop to accommodate the button or snap. The buttonhole should be large enough for the button to pass through, and the snap loop should be large enough to accommodate the snap.
- Sew the buttonhole or snap loop in place. Use strong thread to sew the buttonhole or snap loop securely in place. Make sure the stitches are even and close together.
- Reinforce the buttonhole or snap loop. To prevent the buttonhole or snap loop from tearing out, reinforce the fabric around the opening with a few extra stitches.
- Test the closure. Ensure the button or snap closure works smoothly by opening and closing it several times. Adjust the tension or position of the button or snap if necessary.
- Choose the type of pocket you want to sew. There are two main types of pants pockets: patch pockets and welt pockets. Patch pockets are sewn onto the outside of the pants, while welt pockets are sewn into the side seam of the pants.
- Cut out the fabric for the pocket. The size and shape of the pocket will depend on the type of pocket you are sewing. For a patch pocket, cut out a rectangle of fabric that is twice the width of the finished pocket and three times the height of the finished pocket.
- Fold the fabric in half and press the fold. This will create the top edge of the pocket.
- Sew the side seams of the pocket. Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance.
- Turn the pocket right side out and press it flat.
- Topstitch around the edges of the pocket. This will help to secure the pocket and give it a finished look.
- Attach the pocket to the pants. For a patch pocket, simply sew the pocket onto the outside of the pants using a 1/2-inch seam allowance. For a welt pocket, follow the instructions in the tutorial below.
| Machine Stitch Type | Presser Foot |
|---|---|
| Straight stitch, about 3 mm stitch length | General-purpose presser foot |
| Optional: Topstitch stitch, about 5 mm stitch length | Topstitching presser foot |
Sewing the Pocket Opening
1. Hem the Inner Pocket Edge
Fold the inner edge of the pocket lining under by 1/2 inch and press. Fold it up again by another 1/2 inch and press, then stitch it in place near the raw edge.
2. Pin the Pocket Lining to the Pants
Align the raw edge of the pocket lining with the opening on the pants, right sides together. Pin it in place.
3. Stitch the Lining to the Pants
Stitch around the three sides of the pocket lining, 1/4 inch from the edge. Leave the upper edge open.
4. Press the Pocket Seam
Press the seam between the lining and the pants open.
5. Top-Stitch the Pocket Opening
Fold the upper edge of the pocket opening under by 1/4 inch and press. Topstitch it along the folded edge, 1/8 inch from the edge.
6. Finish the Inside of the Pocket
| Option | Description |
|---|---|
| **Bound Seams** | Cut two strips of fabric 1 inch wide by the length of the pocket opening. Fold each strip in half lengthwise and press. Tuck the raw edges of the strips inside the pocket opening and stitch them in place, covering the raw seams. |
| **Seam Binding** | Purchase seam binding in a matching color. Fold the seam binding in half lengthwise and press. Tuck the raw edges of the seam binding inside the pocket opening and stitch it in place, covering the raw seams. |
| **Serged Seams** | If you have a serger, you can serge the raw seams inside the pocket opening for a clean finish. |
Reinforcing the Pocket
Reinforcing the pocket is an important step in the construction of any pair of pants. This step helps to prevent the pocket from tearing or stretching out of shape, ensuring that they last longer and remain functional for years to come.
To reinforce the pocket, you must first fuse a piece of interfacing to the wrong side of the pocket fabric. Interfacing is a non-woven fabric that helps to stabilize and strengthen fabrics, making them less likely to tear or stretch. Cut the interfacing to the same shape as the pocket and center it on the wrong side of the fabric.
Next, topstitch around the edges of the pocket, close to the seam line, to secure the interfacing in place. This will create a strong and durable reinforcement that will help to prevent the pocket from tearing.
In addition to fusing interfacing, there are several other methods that can be used to reinforce the pocket, including:
| Method | Description |
|---|---|
| Bar tacking | Sewing a series of parallel lines across the corners of the pocket to create a reinforced area |
| Edge stitching | Sewing a line of stitches around the edges of the pocket to create a durable finish |
| Top stitching | Sewing a line of stitches across the top edge of the pocket to create a decorative and reinforced finish |
By following these steps and techniques, you can ensure that the pockets on your pants will be strong, durable, and able to withstand years of use.
Adding a Button or Snap Closure
To add a button or snap closure to your pants pockets, follow these steps:
| Closure Type | Button | Snap |
|---|---|---|
| Cost | Low | Medium |
| Durability | High | Medium to High |
| Ease of Installation | Medium | Easy |
| Requires Special Tools | None | Snap Pliers |
Finishing the Pockets
After stitching the pocket bags to the pant front and back, it’s time to finish the edges to give the pockets a polished and durable appearance.
9. Trimming Excess Seam Allowance
Trim the seam allowance close to the stitching on all sides except the top edge. This will reduce bulk and prevent the seams from being visible through the fabric.
Edge Options for the Top Edge
| Option | Description |
|---|---|
| Fold and Topstitch | Fold the top edge of the pocket bag over by 1/2 inch and topstitch down. |
| Facing | Cut a strip of fabric 1 inch wide and long enough to cover the top edge of the pocket bag. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, iron, and sew it to the top edge of the pocket bag. Fold the strip over and topstitch down. |
| Bias Tape | Cut a strip of bias tape long enough to cover the top edge of the pocket bag. Fold the bias tape over the edge and topstitch down. |
10. Topstitching
Once the top edge is finished, topstitch around the remaining three sides of the pocket bag, close to the stitching. This will secure the seams and give the pockets a professional finish.
11. Bartacks or Rivets
Optional: For added strength, especially in stress points like the corners of the pockets, you can reinforce them with bartacks or rivets.
1. Pocket is Too Loose
– Ensure that there is enough fabric for a seam allowance.
– Ensure that the stitching is even and secure.
– Use a smaller seam allowance to reduce the excess fabric.
– Fold the edge of the pocket opening and topstitch it.
2. Pocket is Too Tight
– Ensure that there is enough space between the pocket and the seam line.
– Use a larger seam allowance to increase the space.
– Clip the corners of the pocket to reduce bulk.
– Use a smaller pocket lining.
3. Fabric Puckering Around Pocket Opening
– Iron the fabric around the pocket opening to flatten it.
– Use a longer stitch length to prevent the fabric from puckering.
– Use a smaller stitch length around the corners of the pocket opening.
– Trim the excess fabric around the pocket opening.
4. Pocket Lining Is Bunched
– Ensure that the pocket lining is cut to the correct size.
– Iron the pocket lining to flatten it.
– Pin the pocket lining in place before stitching it.
– Top stitch around the perimeter of the pocket opening to secure the lining
5. Pocket Is Not Aligning on Both Sides
– Check that the pocket template is centered on the fabric.
– Ensure that the stitching is parallel to the pocket edge.
– Use a ruler or measuring tape to ensure that the pockets are aligned on both sides.
– Pin the pockets in place before stitching them.
6. Pocket Is Not Flat
– Ensure that the fabric is not folded or wrinkled.
– Iron the pocket to flatten it.
– Ensure that the stitching is even and secure.
– Use a larger stitch length to prevent the pocket from puckering.
7. Pocket Is Too Small
– Ensure that the pocket template is the correct size.
– Use a larger pocket template.
– Cut the fabric for the pocket larger than the template.
– Trim the excess fabric after sewing the pocket.
8. Pocket Is Too Large
– Ensure that the pocket template is the correct size.
– Use a smaller pocket template.
– Cut the fabric for the pocket smaller than the template.
– Tuck the excess fabric into the seam allowance.
9. Pockets Are Not Level
– Mark the center of the pocket opening on the fabric.
– Pin the pocket in place using the marked center.
– Ensure that the stitching is parallel to the fabric edge.
– Cut off any excess fabric after sewing the pocket.
10. Distorted Pockets
| Problem | Solution |
|---|---|
| “Dog Ears” (excess fabric at corners) | Trim the corners before turning the pocket right side out |
| Flared or stretched pockets | Secure the corners with a few extra stitches |
| Pockets not lying flat | Test the pocket size on a scrap piece of fabric before sewing onto garment |
How to Sew Pants Pockets
Pockets are a versatile and functional addition to any pair of pants. They can be used to store a variety of items, from keys and phones to wallets and snacks. Sewing pockets into your pants is a relatively simple task that can be completed in just a few steps.
People Also Ask
How do I sew a welt pocket?
To sew a welt pocket, you will need to create a pocket opening in the side seam of the pants. You will then need to cut out a rectangular piece of fabric that is twice the width of the pocket opening and three times the height of the pocket opening. Fold the fabric in half and press the fold. This will create the top edge of the pocket. Sew the side seams of the pocket and turn the pocket right side out. Press the pocket flat and topstitch around the edges. Insert the pocket into the pocket opening and sew it in place.
What is the best fabric for sewing pants pockets?
The best fabric for sewing pants pockets is a durable, woven fabric such as cotton, canvas, or denim. These fabrics will hold up well to wear and tear and will not stretch out easily.
Can I sew pockets into any pair of pants?
Yes, you can sew pockets into any pair of pants. However, it is important to choose a pocket design that is compatible with the fabric and style of the pants. For example, a patch pocket is a good choice for casual pants made from a durable fabric such as denim or canvas. A welt pocket is a more formal option that is better suited for pants made from a finer fabric such as wool or silk.
